Wednesday, September 6, 2017

North Point Trousers

Good morning friends! I know, I know, I know....I've been away all summer long. I've been on vacation and spending time with the family. Summers are always so hard to stay close to my sewing machine. I've just accepted that fact. It's ok though because I'm hanging out with friends and family and making memories in the process.

Anyways, the weather is getting cooler here in Chicago so for me, that means staying in a lot more (and more sewing time, yay!) To jump start me back into sewing, I accepted a test sew from the lovely Kennis over at Itch to Stitch. I just love her and her patterns!
I present to you her latest pattern: North Point Trousers.

North point Trousers Feature:
  • Classically sleek straight leg silhouette
  • Medium rise and curve through hip and thigh
  • Ankle length that can be lengthened or shortened
  • Contour waistband for a better fit
  • Streamlined front slanted pockets
  • Strong and durable back single-welt pockets
  • Fly front with zipper and double hook and bar closure
  • Use of stretch woven fabric for comfort
  • Layers feature (print only the sizes you need)

So let's talk construction. In my opinion, I have never made a more successful pair of pants as these. I actually made a muslin because I wanted them to actually fit me properly. I sewed a straight size 2. I did a flat seat adjustment (because I have no butt) and I shaved off about 1/2 inch off the crotch. I'm very happy with how my bum turned out but my crotch still needs a little work.
Speaking of butts and crotches...Let's discuss the welt pockets. Oh, why oh why do welt pockets give me such a hard time? I had 3.5 yards of this gorgeous fabric and I used all 3.5 yards of it. I messed up on these welt pockets 3 times before I just accepted a less than stellar pocket. They look ok, but I know I can do better. If you are interested, Kennis has a photo tutorial on how to do welt pockets. I did follow her tutorial, but I think that part of my problem was the fact that this fabric is a little lofty. I wanted a heavier weight pair of pants, because I tend to have cold knees in the winter and I hate being cold.

The fabric is Cotton/Poly/Lycra Twill purchased from Fabric Mart.!

It feels so good. I really wish I hadn't used all of this fabric because I had plans to make a matching blazer and of course, Fabric Mart is sold out of it. Boo! It's actually a darkish brown color, but of course its hard to capture the beauty of darker colored fabrics online.

The instructions were easy to follow. However, if I had to rate this pattern, I would rate it as Immediate due to the welt pockets. If you have ever made a pair of pants, you will be fine making these. I consider this pattern a staple for me. You will always need a good pair of slacks.

I highly recommend this pattern. I'm actually thinking about sewing another pair this weekend in a lighter weight fabric. I paired it with this thrifted top. This "top" was actually a dress once that didn't look very good. I simply cut it to my desired length and added elastic to the bottom for a blousy effect.

The pattern is on sale right now. So if you are thinking about
purchasing, I would highly suggest doing it while still on sale. You really can't go wrong with a pattern for a pair of slacks that fit great!

Until next time

Monday, April 24, 2017

Jumping for Joy!

Hello! I know it's been a while since I last blogged and I really don't have any excuse at all. Well...maybe I do. I somehow it a block. Have you ever not been able to come up with a good project to sew? I just could not figure out what I wanted to sew. I have multiple projects in my sewing que and some even started, but nothing really jumped out at me. I just did not have any motivation.

But then Kennis put out a test call for her next pattern. It seems like she is putting out a new pattern every other week! (I secretly love it)  I decided that the best way to get me back on the horse was to test her pattern for her. Not only will it result in a beautifully made item, it will also force me to start and complete a project. I got my sew-jo back, yall!!!!

I present to you my Anza Jumpsuit:
 I have a secret love affair with jumpsuits and rompers, and this pattern checked off all my requirements.
Anza jumpsuit is described as an unlined, front button V neck with cuffed sleeves. It comes in A, B, C, D and DD cups, sizes 0-20, pleated breast pockets with buttoned flaps. The most amazing thing about this pattern is that it can be made into a jumpsuit or a cute little dress.
The ankle length hems are elastic and the waist band is cinched by elastic. This jumpsuit can be dressed up or down depending on your shoes and accessories. It's all about the shoe game here! My jumpsuit is made with some light weight denim purchased at JoAnn Fabrics. It was listed as a light weight denim, but it feels more like a cotton. It breathes well and is the perfect weight for this garment.

So let's talk about changes that I made. Usually when I make Kennis' patterns, I don't have to make many changes. This pattern was no exception. I didn't even shorten the leg length. I like how the pants legs "bunch" up at the bottom paired with the elastic. I cut a size 2, which is my usual for her patterns and the fit is spot on.
The instructions were very clear and concise. I do have plans for at least 2 more versions. I do want to make a summer dress from this pattern and another jumpsuit. Another tester did a black version that was totally stunning. For my next jumpsuit version, I will probably grade the hips in a little bit. I'm not quite as curvy as the pattern, or as I would like to be. LOL

All in all I give the pattern an A+. I think a beginner could definitely work their way through this pattern successfully.
Anza jumpsuit and dress is on sale right now until the end of this week.

Until next time

Saturday, February 4, 2017

70's Style

Good afternoon friends. I hope your week was as enjoyable and productive as mines. I've been working crazy overtime hours lately because my sweet little youngest daughter is graduating from 8th grade this May and she has a lot of expenses coming up soon. With all that being said, I didn't get as much sewing done this week as I would have liked.

Today's post is about 2 items that I finished a few weeks ago.
The top is Vogue 8772 and the bottoms are Simplicity 8058.
So, just 1 year ago, I made a 70's type jumpsuit. This top and pants ensemble really makes me think that I was made to live in the 70's era. I love everything about 70's fashion; the polyester, the big afros and even the dancing!

 So let's talk about the pants for a second here. The pattern is a Cynthia Rowley collection and is described as a flared knit pant.
Sizing is from 4-20, but let me caution you, I cut a size 10 and I just barely have enough room. Next time I'll size up in the hips. I used a black scuba knit that was purchased from the Textile Outlet, here in Chicago. I really love a nice pair of wide leg pants. The pattern also has a skirt and jacket to match. Scuba knit is really lofty and warm. This was my first time sewi

Overall, the instructions were good. I omitted the button band across the waist and shortened the length by my usual 2 inches. Fit-wise, it's pretty close to perfect. The crotch length fit straight out of the envelope. My only complaint is the funky lines under my butt. However, they aren't a deal breaker for me.
Lastly, the next pair that I make, I'll insert an invisible zip. Not sure why this pattern called for a regular zipper, but whatever. Oh and because the scuba knit does not fray, I left the hems undone. (it gives it character)!

My pussy bow blouse:
I had been wanting a make a blouse like this for a while. Vogue 8772 is described as a fitted blouse that has a collar, sleeve and hem variations, French darts and narrow hem. I did view B. The fabric is from Fabric Mart (sorry sold out!). It is a poly blend and has a really great hand; easy to sew and even easier to press. I purchased this fabric a while ago as a precut bundle. If my memory serves me right, it was super cheap; like $9.00 for 3 yards (who does that?!) I love Fabric Mart.
Sizing is from 6-22 and I cut a size 6 and absolutely no alterations. The fit is awesome and it pairs well with the pants. Excuse the above pic. Not sure what I was doing but it gives you a good close up of the top.
The combination of the top and pants is a good match. I'll be ready for whomever decides to throw a disco party!
Until next time

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